After more than 70 years in the food industry, 89-year-old hawker Uncle Li (李松坤) has been running his noodle stall all by himself and cooking every dish with his own hands. Sadly, due to dwindling business, he has decided to shut down his stall by this weekend, reported Zaobao.
A recent Facebook post by a netizen described a touching encounter at Old Airport Road Food Centre, where the poster recognised a familiar elderly uncle who used to run a noodle stall in Whampoa. Affectionately known as “Uncle Li,” the netizen fondly remembered his satay bee hoon and laksa, which were once a hit with customers.
The post shared how tasting Uncle Li’s satay bee hoon again brought back nostalgic childhood memories.
“Uncle Li is now 89, still cheerful and warm. He insists on cooking every bowl himself, with the same skill and precision. He is truly an admirable hawker. I hope customers can show him a bit more patience when they visit.”
When reporters visited the stall on Tuesday (Apr 1), the hawker, Mr. Li shared that he began working in the F&B trade at the age of 17 as an assistant at a stall. It wasn’t until he was 30 that he struck out on his own to start his own business.
“When I first started, my salary was only $30 a month. I learned everything on the job. From how to make duck rice, mixed rice, satay bee hoon, to different types of noodles.”
With decades of experience under his belt, Mr. Li has operated stalls at various places including ITE Central in Ang Mo Kio and coffee shops in Whampoa. Four months ago, he decided to set up shop at Old Airport Road Food Centre.
He revealed that when his wife was still alive, she used to help out at the stall. Now, he handles everything on his own, from preparation to cooking. But with low footfall and declining sales, it’s become unsustainable. He will be closing his stall this Saturday (April 5).
“The monthly cost for rent, utilities, and gas adds up to over $3,000. But some days, I only earn $100 to $200. Sometimes, I’m barely breaking even.”
As for his future plans, Mr. Li shared that his children and grandchildren each have their own careers and are not keen to take over the business.
Smiling, he said: “I guess it’s really time for me to retire.”
If you are keen to visit Uncle Li’s noodle stall, you may find him at Li Ji Noodle House, 51 Old Airport Road Food Centre #01-40 Singapore 39005.
Below is the full text of the Facebook post in case you cannot see:
Another lost-and-found heritage stall, run by pioneer-generation veteran hawker Uncle Li, has moved from Whampoa 86 Food Court to Old Airport Road Hawker Centre. I was there for dinner and wandered to the last row of the hawker centre where Ru Ji Kitchen is located — and there, I spotted a familiar elderly figure sitting outside his stall. Instantly, I recognised Uncle Li.
Back in Whampoa in 2023, Uncle Li was selling prawn noodles, satay beehoon, and laksa under the stall name Lee Satay Beehoon. He was well-known in the area for serving the best satay beehoon and laksa.
Now, he focuses on just three dishes: satay beehoon, pork ribs noodles, and bak chor mee. Without hesitation, we ordered bak chor mee pok and satay beehoon. What sets Uncle Li’s satay beehoon apart is the sauce — less sweet than most, with a wonderfully aromatic blend of freshly ground spices and peanuts. The ingredients are generous and fresh, including classic pork liver, cockles, cured squid, and tau pok. Every mouthful of beehoon coated in that thick, smooth satay gravy brought back the nostalgic flavors of my childhood.
The bak chor mee pok comes with three types of balls — fishball, meatball, and ngoh hiang ball — along with minced pork and lean meat. His chilli sauce is pure nostalgia, and paired with crispy lard, it’s as old-school as it gets. The soup broth is clean and comforting, and the noodles are perfectly cooked with a good al dente bite and no alkaline taste and both noodles are value for money.
Uncle Li has since renamed his stall to Li Ji Noodle House (李记面家) when he moved to Old Airport Road three months ago. Unfortunately, business there wasn’t sustainable, and he now worries the same might happen at his new location. At 89 years old, the jovial and humble Mr. Li is still going strong, cooking every bowl of noodles himself with steady hands. The commute is now further for him, as he lives in Toa Payoh, but he remains committed. Please be patient when ordering — he runs the stall solo.
As I said goodbye and handed him some bao for his dinner, he shared that he had been unwell. Yet, his strong belief in not disappointing his loyal customers keeps him going. This is my small tribute to him — a noble chef and hawker figure whom I deeply respect. #singaporefoodjourney
